Jerash | Jordan

Jerash (Gerasa) is the administrative center of the Jerash Governorate in northern Jordan. It is globally recognized for containing one of the largest and best-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside of Italy, often referred to as the "Pompeii of the East."

Historical Timeline

Habitation began in the Neolithic period, but the city’s significance grew under Alexander the Great and the subsequent Seleucid Empire. It became a member of the Decapolis League under Roman rule. Its golden age occurred in the 2nd century AD, particularly following the visit of Emperor Hadrian in 129 AD. The city was devastated by the Galilee earthquake of 749 AD and remained buried under sand until its rediscovery by German explorer Ulrich Jasper Seetzen in 1806.

Urban Layout & Navigation

The modern city of Jerash sits to the east of the archaeological park, separated by a visible boundary.

Hadrian’s Arch: The monumental entrance built to honor the emperor’s visit.

The Hippodrome: A massive arena for chariot racing, partially restored.

The Oval Plaza: A unique, asymmetrical piazza surrounded by 56 Ionic columns.

The Cardo Maximus: An 800-meter colonnaded main street still featuring the original paving stones and chariot wheel ruts.

The North and South Theaters: Two distinct theaters; the South Theater is the larger, seating over 3,000 people.

Top Landmarks

Temple of Artemis: The city’s most significant religious structure, featuring massive Corinthian columns that still sway slightly in the wind.

Temple of Zeus: Overlooking the Oval Plaza, providing the site's most famous panoramic view.

The Nymphaeum: An ornate public fountain dedicated to the nymphs.

The Macellum: A Roman marketplace with a distinctive octagonal courtyard.

Byzantine Churches: The site contains over 15 ruins of early Christian churches with intricate mosaic floors (e.g., St. Cosmos and St. Damianus).

Logistics & Transportation

Access: Located 50 km north of Amman.

Travel: Approximately a 1-hour drive from Amman via the primary North-South highway.

Public Transit: Frequent minibuses depart from Amman’s North Bus Station (Tarbarbour).

Entry: Included in the Jordan Pass; otherwise, a JOD 12 entrance fee applies for foreigners.

Site Navigation: Entirely pedestrian. The terrain is uneven and stony; sturdy footwear is mandatory.

Safety & Environment

The general safety level is very high.

Heat: The site offers very little shade. Heat exhaustion is a primary risk during summer months.

Scams: Low. While there are local vendors, they are generally less aggressive than those in Petra.

Accessibility: Difficult for those with limited mobility due to the preserved Roman paving stones and steep theater steps.

Digital & Financial Infrastructure

Mobile 4G/5G coverage is excellent throughout the ruins and the modern city. Cash (JOD) is required for local vendors and smaller restaurants outside the site. ATMs are widely available in the modern city adjacent to the archaeological park.

Climate & Environment

Summer: Hot and dry (18°C–34°C).

Winter: Cool and often green (5°C–14°C). Unlike southern Jordan, Jerash is located in a fertile, Mediterranean-style landscape with olive groves.

Best Time to Visit: March to May (wildflower season).

Culture & Social Norms

The Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts is held annually in July, utilizing the ancient theaters for international performances. Social norms are conservative but welcoming. Modest dress is standard. Tipping is not mandatory but appreciated in the tourist-facing restaurants near the site entrance.

Accommodation Zones

Day Trip: Most visitors stay in Amman and visit Jerash as a day trip.

Local Stays: Small boutique hotels and guesthouses exist in the modern city of Jerash for those wishing to explore the site at sunrise.

Local Cost Index

Espresso/Coffee: JOD 2.50

Traditional Lunch (Mansaf): JOD 10.00–15.00

Local Bus Fare: JOD 1.00

Nearby Day Trips

Ajloun Castle: 20 km (30-minute drive); a 12th-century Muslim fortress built to counter the Crusaders.

Umm Qais (Gadara): 65 km north; ruins overlooking the Sea of Galilee.

Dibbeen Forest Reserve: 10 km; a protected area of Aleppo pines and oak trees.

Facts & Legends

A verified architectural oddity is that the columns of the Temple of Artemis were designed to move slightly during earthquakes to prevent snapping; guides often demonstrate this by inserting a spoon into a joint to show the vibration. Local legend claims that the city’s underground drainage system is so extensive it could house a second "shadow city" beneath the Roman streets.