Umm ar-Rasas | Madaba

Information

Landmark: Umm ar-Rasas
City: Madaba
Country: Jordan
Continent: Asia

Umm ar-Rasas, Madaba, Jordan, Asia

Umm ar-Rasas is an archaeological site located in the semi-arid steppe of central Jordan, approximately 30 kilometers southeast of Madaba. The Church of Saint Stephen is the most significant structure within the complex, containing one of the largest and best-preserved Byzantine mosaic floors in the Middle East.

Visual Characteristics

The church is a rectangular basilica constructed from local limestone and basalt blocks. The interior is defined by a massive mosaic floor dating to 785 AD, featuring a central panel of geometric motifs and an outer border depicting 28 cities from both sides of the Jordan River, including Jerusalem, Gaza, and Madaba. The cities are rendered as detailed vignettes with specific architectural features like gates, towers, and churches, executed in shades of ochre, red, grey, and black.

Location & Access Logistics

The site is situated 30 kilometers southeast of Madaba via the Kings Highway or the Desert Highway (Route 15) using the Dhiban turnoff. Access is provided by a paved road leading directly to the visitor center. There is a designated gravel parking area for private vehicles and tour buses. Public transport is unavailable to this remote location; private car hire or organized taxi service from Madaba or Amman is required for access.

Historical & Ecological Origin

Umm ar-Rasas began as a Roman military camp (Kastron Mefaa) in the 3rd century AD and evolved into a prominent Christian town during the Byzantine and early Islamic periods. The Church of Saint Stephen was built in the 8th century, notable for being completed under Umayyad rule, which demonstrates continued Christian artistic activity after the Islamic conquest. The site was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004.

Key Highlights & Activities

Visitors can walk on raised metal walkways over the mosaic floor to view the city vignettes and the portrait of the donor, John. Outside the main church complex, the 15-meter-high Stylite Tower-the only one of its kind preserved in the region-is visible to the north. Exploring the surrounding ruins reveals several other ecclesiastical foundations and the remains of the Roman fortified walls.

Infrastructure & Amenities

The site includes a modern visitor center with basic informational displays and public restrooms. A protective hangar-like structure covers the Church of Saint Stephen to shield the mosaics from solar radiation and rain. 4G cellular coverage is available but can be weak due to the remote location. There are no food or water vendors on-site; visitors must bring supplies from Madaba or Dhiban.

Best Time to Visit

Optimal conditions for viewing the mosaics are mid-morning when natural light enters the protective enclosure through side openings without creating heavy shadows. The site is open daily during daylight hours. Due to the exposed, desert-like environment and lack of shade outside the main church, the months of October through April are recommended for temperate weather.

Facts & Legends

The mosaics at Umm ar-Rasas exhibit evidence of "iconoclasm," where figures of humans and animals were carefully removed and replaced with geometric or floral patterns during the 8th century, likely in response to local religious shifts. A unique historical feature is the depiction of "Kastron Mefaa" itself on the border of the mosaic, providing a rare contemporary self-portrait of the town.