Chouara Tannery | Fes

The Chouara Tannery is one of the most famous and oldest tanneries in Fes, Morocco. Located in the heart of the city's ancient medina, it is a key part of Fes' long tradition of leatherworking. The tannery has been in operation for over a thousand years and remains an essential part of the local economy and culture, attracting visitors for both its historical significance and its visually striking production process.

Historical Background

Origins: The Chouara Tannery has been a vital part of Fes' economy since the 9th century. It was established during the Almoravid dynasty and later expanded under the Merinid dynasty. The tannery reflects Morocco’s deep history of leather production and craftsmanship.

Importance: Leather has been a crucial commodity in Morocco for centuries, and Fes has historically been a center for tanning and dyeing leather products. Chouara, along with other tanneries in Fes, was integral to Morocco’s commercial and artisanal reputation across the Mediterranean and beyond.

Preservation: The Chouara Tannery is one of the few tanneries in the world that still follows ancient methods that have been passed down through generations, allowing visitors to witness one of the oldest industrial processes still in operation today.

The Tanning Process

The process of turning raw animal hides into durable leather at Chouara is a fascinating blend of traditional techniques and local craftsmanship. The entire process is done by hand, with the tanners using the same methods that have been employed for centuries. Here's a breakdown of the key steps:

Soaking the Hides: Raw hides are soaked in large vats filled with a lime solution to remove the fur and prepare the hides for further processing. This stage softens the hides and makes them more pliable.

Dehairing: The hides are then placed in vats filled with animal urine and plant-based solutions to break down the remaining hair and tissue. This stage gives the leather its unique texture and flexibility.

Tanning: The hides are immersed in vats filled with a mixture of vegetable dyes derived from local plants like henna, pomegranate, and indigo. This is a critical step in giving the leather its distinctive colors. The tanners use traditional techniques to ensure the leather remains soft and durable.

Drying and Finishing: Once the tanning process is complete, the leather is dried out on rooftop terraces to further set the colors and to dry it in the open air. Skilled artisans then proceed to cut, stitch, and finish the leather, creating products such as bags, jackets, shoes, and belts.

Coloring: The vibrant hues that the Chouara Tannery is famous for come from the natural plant dyes used. Bright reds, yellows, and blues are the most commonly seen colors, creating a beautiful contrast with the natural brown and black leathers.

Architectural and Visual Appeal

Vats and Pools: The most distinctive feature of the Chouara Tannery is its large, open vats, filled with dyes and chemicals. These vats are typically in multi-colored hues, creating a visually striking scene. Visitors can look down from surrounding terraces to view the workers in the vats below.

Terraces: Several buildings surrounding the tannery have open terraces where visitors can observe the leatherworking process. The terraces provide an elevated view of the multicolored dye vats and the workers, allowing a unique perspective of the labor-intensive methods being employed.

Tanners: The workers at the tannery are typically men who have inherited the trade from their families over generations. They can often be seen standing in the vats, submerged up to their knees in the various chemical solutions, working to soften the leather. They wear simple attire, including traditional sandals and clothing to protect themselves from the chemicals and dyes.

Cultural Significance

Traditional Craftsmanship: The Chouara Tannery is a living example of traditional Moroccan craftsmanship that has been passed down through generations. It continues to support a vibrant artisan community and provides an essential part of Morocco's craft industry.

Economic Impact: Leather production at Chouara sustains thousands of families in Fes, contributing to the local economy. The products created in the tannery are sold both locally and internationally, supporting not just the artisans but also the broader tourism industry.

Tourist Attraction: The Chouara Tannery is one of the top attractions for visitors to Fes. People flock to the tannery to witness the unique process of leather production and to purchase leather goods directly from the artisans. The sight of the colorful vats and the workers at their craft creates an unforgettable impression on visitors.

Visitor Experience

Sensory Experience: The smell of the tannery is quite strong due to the use of chemicals, animal products, and dyes in the tanning process. Visitors are often provided with mint sprigs to hold to their noses to help mitigate the strong odor, making the experience a bit more pleasant.

Souks: After visiting the tannery, visitors can explore the surrounding souks of Fes, where a wide variety of leather goods are sold, including jackets, slippers (babouches), handbags, and belts. Many of these items are handmade using the very leather processed at Chouara.

Photography: Visitors can take photographs from the terraces, capturing the vibrant colors of the vats and the bustling activity below. The view is both beautiful and historically significant, offering a rare glimpse into an ancient industry still alive and thriving.

Conclusion

The Chouara Tannery is a fascinating destination for those interested in history, culture, and craftsmanship. It provides a unique opportunity to witness one of the oldest leather production processes in the world, using traditional methods that have remained largely unchanged for centuries. With its colorful vats, skilled artisans, and vibrant products, the tannery stands as a testament to the rich heritage and artistic legacy of Fes, Morocco.