Kemeralti Bazaar | Izmir

Kemeraltı Bazaar (Turkish: Kemeraltı Çarşısı) is one of the largest, oldest, and most vibrant historical bazaars in Turkey, located in the Konak district of İzmir. It’s not just a market—it’s a living piece of the city’s soul, stretching back centuries and still alive with activity today.

Here's a detailed breakdown of its history, layout, atmosphere, and cultural significance:

Historical Background

Origins

Kemeraltı dates back to the 17th century, though the area had been an active trade zone since antiquity when ancient Smyrna’s agora and port connected trade routes across the Aegean.

The bazaar expanded rapidly during the Ottoman period, when İzmir became a major international port, attracting merchants from Europe, the Middle East, and North Africa.

Name Meaning

The name “Kemeraltı” means “under the arch”—referring to the old vaulted arcades that once covered many of the streets.

These stone vaults (kemer) gave the market a unique architectural character, especially in older sections.

Layout and Structure

Kemeraltı sprawls over several city blocks, forming a dense web of narrow, winding streets, covered passages, open-air stalls, and historic courtyards. Key components include:

1. Historical Hans (Inns) and Bedestens

These were once places where traveling merchants stayed and traded.

Examples include:

Kızlarağası Hanı: The most famous han, built in 1744, now a centerpiece of the bazaar with tea shops, artisans, and antiques.

Beyler Hanı and Abacıoğlu Hanı: Other historic inns used for commerce and social gatherings.

2. Mosques and Religious Sites

Scattered throughout the bazaar are small yet beautiful Ottoman-era mosques, including:

Hisar Mosque (1592): The largest and one of the oldest mosques in İzmir, richly decorated and still in use.

Başdurak Mosque, Şadırvan Mosque, and others.

There are also synagogues in the nearby Havra Sokağı (Synagogue Street), reflecting İzmir’s Jewish heritage.

3. Historical Fountains and Tombs

Traditional Ottoman sebils (public water dispensers) and türbes (tombs) of religious figures are integrated into the urban fabric.

4. Shops and Merchandise

Kemeraltı is divided into zones by specialty:

Gold and silver shops

Leather goods

Spices, herbs, and Turkish delight

Textiles and fabrics

Shoemakers and tailors

Antique stores and bookshops

It’s a blend of traditional trades (like copperware and calligraphy) and modern retailers.

Cultural and Social Role

1. A Living Museum

Unlike museum-like bazaars, Kemeraltı is a living, breathing commercial ecosystem.

Many of the artisans work in shops that have been in their families for generations.

You can still see craftsmen hammering copper, tailors working by hand, and spice merchants blending traditional remedies.

2. Food and Culinary Culture

The bazaar is filled with eateries serving traditional Aegean cuisine, Ottoman dishes, and street food.

Highlights include:

Boyoz (a Sephardic pastry unique to İzmir)

Kokoreç, midye dolma, and tandır kebab

Turkish coffee and çay served in historic hans

İzmir tulum cheese, olives, dried herbs, and homemade jams

3. Havra Sokağı (Synagogue Street)

This street is a reminder of İzmir’s multicultural past, once home to a large Sephardic Jewish community.

Multiple historic synagogues, like Beit Hillel and Hevra Synagogue, are located here.

While many are now closed or used for cultural projects, their architecture remains an important heritage feature.

4. Festivals and Art

Kemeraltı occasionally hosts folk performances, exhibitions, and cultural festivals that highlight İzmir’s diverse traditions.

Modern Developments and Preservation

The TARKEM (Tarihi Kemeraltı İnşaat Yatırım Ticaret A.Ş.) project and other public-private partnerships have aimed to revitalize and preserve the historic bazaar.

Restoration of old hans, synagogues, and streets has been ongoing.

In 2020, the historical core of İzmir—including Kemeraltı—was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, recognizing its global cultural significance.

Atmosphere and Experience

Visiting Kemeraltı is a sensory experience—filled with sounds of haggling, smells of spices and roasted chestnuts, the rhythm of footsteps on stone, and a blend of languages and accents.

It’s chaotic and peaceful at once: a place where tradition and daily life coexist.

Whether you're shopping, exploring historic corners, or just sipping tea in a han courtyard, the atmosphere is immersive.

Conclusion

Kemeraltı Bazaar is more than a marketplace—it's a cultural time capsule, reflecting İzmir's Ottoman heritage, multicultural identity, and living urban traditions. From the bustling alleyways and ancient hans to the smell of spices and the sound of artisans at work, Kemeraltı invites you not just to shop, but to step into centuries of history, trade, and community life.