Café des Nattes | Sidi Bou Said

Café des Nattes is the most emblematic café in the village of Sidi Bou Said, Tunisia. It is a place where architecture, culture, and history blend into one unique and enduring symbol of Tunisia’s artistic and intellectual life. The café’s reputation has grown far beyond its modest size, thanks to its deep roots in North African heritage, its influential visitors, and its location at the spiritual and cultural heart of the village.

Location and Setting

Café des Nattes sits prominently at the top of the main stone-paved staircase that winds through the central part of Sidi Bou Said, just a few steps from the mausoleum of Abou Said al-Baji, the 13th-century Sufi saint after whom the village is named. The name "Nattes" refers to the woven straw mats (nattes in French) that once covered the interior floor of the establishment.

The building is housed in a structure that was originally part of a religious zawiya (a Sufi lodge), and its position gives it a commanding view over the surrounding white-and-blue village. Visitors ascending the steps toward the café are immediately struck by its arched portico, whitewashed walls, and shaded terraces, which offer stunning views of the Gulf of Tunis and the Mediterranean beyond.

Historical and Cultural Importance

Café des Nattes is much more than a café—it is a cultural institution. Since its founding in the early 20th century, it has served as a meeting place for writers, poets, painters, musicians, and philosophers, both Tunisian and foreign.

Famous Patrons:

August Macke, the German Expressionist painter, captured the café in a famous watercolor in 1914 during a journey to Tunisia with fellow artist Paul Klee.

André Gide, the French Nobel laureate in literature, was a regular visitor.

Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre were also known to have spent time here, attracted by the contemplative atmosphere and the exoticism of North Africa.

Paul Klee, the Swiss painter and theorist, was deeply inspired by the colors and light of the region, including moments spent in and around this café.

Café des Nattes became a center of Orientalist fascination, but also a genuine crossroads of intellectual exchange, especially in the 1920s and 1930s when Tunisia was a French protectorate and Sidi Bou Said attracted both colonial and native artistic circles.

Architecture and Interior

The café’s Moorish design reflects the village’s Andalusian-Tunisian style:

Arched doorways and narrow columns with subtle carvings frame the entrance.

The inside features brightly patterned ceramic tiles in shades of blue and green, matching the color palette of the village.

Low wooden tables and cushioned seating areas evoke a traditional Maghrebi interior, where guests recline over tea or coffee.

The mats for which the café was originally named are no longer present in their original form but remain a symbolic part of its identity.

The upper terrace offers views of both the village’s rooftops and the sea, making it one of the most photographed spots in Tunisia.

Atmosphere and Experience

Café des Nattes offers an authentic Tunisian café experience:

Its most iconic drink is “thé à la menthe” (mint tea), often garnished with pine nuts floating on top—a North African tradition.

Tunisian coffee, strong and thick, is also popular.

Light snacks such as pastries, briks, and almond-based sweets are sometimes available, depending on the time of day.

The café is usually bustling with activity, especially in the afternoon when tourists and locals alike come to enjoy the views and people-watch. Despite its fame, it maintains a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Musicians sometimes play traditional malouf music, and local artists can often be seen sketching or writing in its shaded corners.

Practical Information

Opening Hours: Generally open daily from morning until late evening.

Access: It can only be reached on foot, via the village’s pedestrian stone pathways. The stairs leading up to it can be steep.

Best Time to Visit: Early morning or sunset, when the sunlight enhances the warm hues of the architecture and the terrace is less crowded.

Photography: It is one of the most photographed locations in Tunisia due to its aesthetic composition and historic associations.

Symbolic Role

Café des Nattes has become a symbol of Sidi Bou Said itself. It represents:

The intersection of East and West, where Islamic mysticism, European intellectualism, and African tradition meet.

A place of leisure and contemplation, echoing the Sufi spirit of reflection.

A living museum, where the history of 20th-century art and culture continues to be felt in every corner.

In conclusion, Café des Nattes is not just a café—it is a living monument to Tunisia’s cultural openness, artistic legacy, and architectural beauty. To visit it is to step into a world where history lingers in the air, carried on the scent of mint tea and sea breeze.