Greyfriars Kirk | Edinburgh

Greyfriars Kirk, one of Edinburgh’s most iconic and historic landmarks, is located in the heart of the city, close to the bustling Grassmarket and the Royal Mile. The kirk (Scottish for church) is renowned not only for its rich history and stunning architecture but also for its association with key events in Scotland’s religious and political history. Additionally, it is closely linked to the touching story of Greyfriars Bobby, the loyal Skye Terrier. Here’s a detailed exploration of Greyfriars Kirk, its history, architecture, and significance.

Origins and History

Founding and Early History:

Foundation in the 16th Century: Greyfriars Kirk was founded in 1620 by the Catholic monarch King James VI (later James I of England), who authorized the creation of a Franciscan friary in the area. The church was built on land previously owned by the Franciscans and was intended as a place for the worship of the Church of Scotland following the Reformation. It was named after the Franciscan "Greyfriars" who once occupied the site, though the church itself became part of the Presbyterian tradition.

Reformation and Religious Turmoil: The kirk’s location in Edinburgh places it at the heart of Scotland's Reformation. During the 16th century, Edinburgh was a center of religious conflict, with Presbyterianism struggling against Catholicism. The Reformation led to the dismantling of Catholic institutions and the conversion of many religious buildings into Protestant places of worship. Greyfriars Kirk became an important center for the Presbyterian faith and played a role in the turbulent religious history of Scotland.

The Covenanters and the Kirk's Role in Scottish History:

Covenanters’ Struggle: Greyfriars Kirk is most famous for its association with the Covenanters, a group of Scottish Presbyterians who resisted the attempts by the monarchy to impose Anglican practices in the 17th century. The kirk and its graveyard became central to the Covenanter movement, particularly during the mid-1600s.

The 1679 Siege: One of the most significant events associated with the church occurred in 1679, when the Covenanters held a protest against King Charles II’s religious policies. In what became known as the Greyfriars' Siege, around 1,200 Covenanters were imprisoned in the churchyard following the battle of Bothwell Bridge. The prisoners were left to die of disease and exposure, marking a dark chapter in Scotland’s history of religious persecution. Their fate has been memorialized in the churchyard, where several of the prisoners are buried.

Architecture

Design and Features:

Greyfriars Kirk is an impressive example of 17th-century Scottish ecclesiastical architecture, blending medieval and Renaissance styles. The church is built in a simple yet elegant manner, with a rectangular plan, a prominent west-facing entrance, and a small tower that was added in the 19th century. The interior is equally notable for its simplicity and its focus on the pulpit, which reflects the Protestant emphasis on the word of God in the Reformed tradition.

Restoration and Alterations: Over the centuries, the kirk has undergone several restorations and alterations, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The tower was added in 1860, and a number of improvements were made to the interior, including stained glass windows that depict scenes from the Bible and the church’s history. Despite these changes, Greyfriars Kirk has retained much of its original character and remains one of Edinburgh’s most significant places of worship.

The Kirk’s Graveyard:

The churchyard surrounding Greyfriars Kirk is an integral part of its historical and cultural significance. It contains numerous graves, some dating back to the early 17th century. Many of these graves belong to notable figures, including Covenanters, local citizens, and clergy.

The Covenanter’s Prison: Within the graveyard is a section where the Covenanter prisoners were held during the siege of 1679. Their graves are marked with memorial stones, and their story is a poignant reminder of the harsh religious struggles faced during the 17th century. One of the most notable memorials is the Covenanter’s Memorial, which commemorates the lives of those who died in Greyfriars’ prison.

Greyfriars Bobby

1. The Story of Bobby:

Perhaps the most heartwarming and famous tale associated with Greyfriars Kirk is the story of Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye Terrier who became renowned for his loyalty. Bobby’s owner, John Gray, a night watchman in Edinburgh, died in 1858 and was buried in the kirk's graveyard. According to the story, Bobby refused to leave his master's grave and sat by it every day for 14 years, until his own death in 1872.

The Memorial: The tale of Bobby’s unwavering loyalty captured the hearts of Edinburgh residents and visitors alike. A statue of Greyfriars Bobby was erected in 1873 at the entrance to the kirkyard in recognition of the dog's devotion. Today, the statue remains one of the most visited sites in Edinburgh, and Bobby is remembered as a symbol of loyalty and devotion. A small plaque near the statue bears the inscription: "Let his loyalty and devotion be a lesson to us all."

Significance and Modern Role

A Center of Worship:

• Despite its deep historical roots, Greyfriars Kirk remains an active place of worship today. It is a part of the Church of Scotland (Presbyterian) denomination and continues to hold regular services, including Sunday worship, weddings, and baptisms. The church also engages in various community outreach and social justice programs, maintaining its relevance in modern Edinburgh.

Historical and Cultural Heritage:

• Greyfriars Kirk is a key part of Edinburgh’s historical and cultural fabric. The church’s rich history, its associations with the Covenanters, and its connection to Greyfriars Bobby make it a significant site for both locals and tourists. The churchyard, in particular, attracts many visitors who wish to learn about Scotland’s religious history, explore the graves of notable figures, or simply enjoy the quiet of the garden-like space.

Tourism and Education:

• Greyfriars Kirk is a popular destination for tourists interested in Edinburgh’s history. It offers guided tours, educational programs, and exhibits that delve into the church’s past, especially the stories of the Covenanters and the church’s role during the Reformation. It also hosts various cultural events, such as concerts, which make use of its fine acoustics and historic setting.

Conclusion

Greyfriars Kirk is not just an architectural gem but a poignant reminder of Scotland’s religious, social, and cultural history. From its early role in the Reformation to its connection to the Covenanters and the enduring legacy of Greyfriars Bobby, the kirk stands as a testament to the struggles, faith, and loyalty that have shaped Edinburgh. Today, it continues to be an active place of worship and a cherished part of the city’s heritage, welcoming visitors who come to learn, reflect, or simply admire its beauty.