Ex Oficina Salitrera Humberstone | Iquique

Ex Oficina Salitrera Humberstone – A Ghost Town from Chile’s Saltpeter Boom

Overview

The Ex Oficina Salitrera Humberstone is one of Chile’s most fascinating ghost towns, located in the Atacama Desert, near the city of Iquique. It was once a thriving saltpeter mining town that played a crucial role in Chile’s economy during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. However, after the decline of the saltpeter industry, Humberstone was abandoned and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Today, the town stands as an open-air museum, offering visitors an eerie yet captivating glimpse into the lives of the workers who once lived and worked here. The well-preserved buildings, rusting machinery, and empty streets make Humberstone one of the most unique and historically significant places in Chile.

Location & How to Get There

📍 Atacama Desert, Tarapacá Region, Chile

• Distance from Iquique: 48 km (30 mi) east of Iquique
• Driving time from Iquique: Approximately 45 minutes via Ruta 16
• Public Transport: Buses and taxis operate from Iquique to Humberstone, or you can join a guided tour.

History of Humberstone

1. The Saltpeter Boom (19th–Early 20th Century) 🏭

• Humberstone was founded in 1872 as Oficina La Palma and later renamed after James Humberstone, a British engineer who played a key role in Chile’s saltpeter (nitrate) industry.
• The Atacama Desert was rich in sodium nitrate (saltpeter), which was highly valuable as a fertilizer and explosive ingredient.
• By the early 20th century, Chile dominated the world’s saltpeter production, and Humberstone became a bustling town with thousands of workers.

2. The Industry’s Decline & Abandonment (1930s–1960s) ⬇️

• The development of synthetic fertilizers in the 1920s led to a decline in demand for natural saltpeter.
• The Great Depression and competition from other industries further hurt the Chilean nitrate economy.
• Humberstone officially closed in 1960, leaving behind a ghost town with its buildings and infrastructure still intact.

3. UNESCO World Heritage Status (2005) 🌎

• Due to its historical significance, Humberstone was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005, ensuring its preservation as a key part of Chile’s industrial and cultural heritage.

What to See & Do in Humberstone

1. Abandoned Buildings & Ghost Town Atmosphere 🏚️

• Walking through Humberstone is like stepping back in time. Many of the original structures remain standing, including:
  • Workers’ Houses – Small, uniform homes that once housed saltpeter miners and their families.
  • The Market – A roofless marketplace where workers once bought their daily necessities.
  • The Theater 🎭 – An old theater with wooden seats, still standing as a reminder of the town’s former cultural life.
  • The Church ⛪ – A small, simple church that once served as a place of worship for the workers.
  • The School 🏫 – Desks, chalkboards, and children’s drawings still remain in this abandoned schoolhouse.

2. The Industrial Zone & Machinery ⚙️

• The heart of Humberstone was its industrial complex, where saltpeter was extracted and processed. Visitors can explore:
  • Rusting locomotives & railway tracks – Used to transport the saltpeter to the coast.
  • Giant processing plants & furnaces – The remains of the factory where the nitrate was refined.
  • Old machinery & tools – A look at the technology used by miners in the early 20th century.

3. Humberstone Museum 🏺

• The on-site museum provides deeper insight into the history, economy, and daily life of Humberstone’s residents.
• Exhibits include:
  • Photographs & documents from Humberstone’s peak years.
  • Personal belongings of workers, such as clothing, tools, and furniture.
  • Saltpeter mining artifacts, showcasing the methods used in nitrate extraction.

4. The Plaza & Social Life in Humberstone 🏛️

• The town’s main plaza was once a lively meeting point. Today, it stands silent, surrounded by decaying colonial-style buildings.
• The swimming pool 🏊, made from an old train car, is one of the most unusual remnants of the town’s past.

Best Time to Visit

✅ Spring & Autumn (September–November & March–May) – The weather is mild, making it ideal for exploring the desert landscape.
✅ Winter (June–August) – Cooler temperatures, but the desert nights can be very cold.
⛔ Summer (December–February) – Extremely hot temperatures, often exceeding 35°C (95°F). If visiting in summer, bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat.

Tips for Visiting Humberstone

✔️ Wear comfortable shoes – You’ll be walking on sandy and uneven terrain.
✔️ Bring water – The Atacama Desert is dry and hot, so hydration is important.
✔️ Take a camera – The abandoned town, rusting machines, and desert backdrop create stunning photo opportunities.
✔️ Visit early in the morning – To avoid the midday heat and enjoy the site with fewer crowds.
✔️ Join a guided tour – Many tours from Iquique provide expert guides who explain the history and significance of the town.

Nearby Attractions

• Ex Oficina Salitrera Santa Laura – Another nearby abandoned saltpeter plant, offering a different perspective on the industry.
• Pampa del Tamarugal National Reserve – A protected forest area in the desert, home to unique vegetation.
• La Tirana – A small town famous for its colorful religious festival (Fiesta de La Tirana) in July.

Final Thoughts

The Ex Oficina Salitrera Humberstone is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in history, abandoned places, or industrial heritage. It tells the story of Chile’s saltpeter boom and decline, offering a haunting yet fascinating experience in the heart of the Atacama Desert.