Borj El Kebir Fortress | Djerba

Borj El Kebir, also known as the Ghazi Mustapha Fortress, is one of the most significant historical monuments on the island of Djerba, Tunisia. Strategically located at the northeastern edge of Houmt Souk, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and the town’s harbor, this imposing fortress has played a central role in the island’s military, political, and cultural history for centuries.

Historical Background

Borj El Kebir's origins date back to the 13th century, likely constructed on the foundations of a Roman castrum. It was later expanded and fortified by the Hafsid dynasty in the 15th century, and again significantly reinforced during the Ottoman era, particularly under Ghazi Mustapha, a local Ottoman commander after whom the fortress is now commonly named.

The fortress was built to defend Djerba against pirate raids, Spanish incursions, and European crusading fleets. Djerba’s strategic position made it a desirable outpost for empires battling for control of North African sea routes.

One of the most famous historical events associated with Borj El Kebir is the Battle of Djerba in 1560, when a large fleet of Spanish and allied forces was destroyed by the Ottoman navy under Piyale Pasha. After the battle, hundreds of captured Christian soldiers were executed, and according to local tradition, their bones were used to construct a macabre tower—Borj El Rous, or "Tower of Skulls"—within the fortress grounds. While the skull tower no longer stands, its legend endures as a symbol of Ottoman dominance and Djerba’s turbulent past.

Architecture and Structure

Borj El Kebir is a large, rectangular citadel surrounded by thick stone walls, corner bastions, and watchtowers. The fortress was designed in the Islamic military style of the late medieval period, with elements later added during the Ottoman expansion.

Key features include:

High ramparts: Visitors can walk along the walls, which provide panoramic views of the Houmt Souk coastline and the fishing harbor.

Watchtowers and gun ports: These were essential for monitoring incoming ships and defending the coastline.

Interior courtyard: Open and spacious, it served as a staging ground for soldiers and horses.

Cisterns: Water storage systems within the walls allowed the fortress to endure long sieges.

Restoration work over the years has preserved much of its exterior, and some sections of the interior have been made accessible to visitors.

Significance

Borj El Kebir is a potent symbol of:

Djerba’s strategic importance in the Mediterranean.

Islamic and Ottoman military architecture in North Africa.

Resistance and conquest, representing centuries of conflict between Ottoman Muslim powers and Christian European empires.

It also functions today as a cultural landmark, providing both historical insight and a sense of local pride.

Visiting Experience

Borj El Kebir is open to the public and serves as a historical attraction managed by the Tunisian National Heritage Institute.

Visitor experience includes:

Self-guided exploration of the fortress walls, interior chambers, and exhibition areas.

Views over the sea and Houmt Souk, especially striking at sunset.

Occasional historical reenactments and cultural events, especially during local festivals or heritage days.

Informational panels providing historical context, though a local guide can offer deeper insights.

Entrance is inexpensive, and the site is typically uncrowded, offering a peaceful yet evocative glimpse into Djerba’s medieval and early modern past.

Practical Information

Location: Eastern Houmt Souk, close to the fishing port and coastal promenade.

Opening Hours: Generally open during daylight hours (roughly 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM), but times may vary seasonally.

Accessibility: Some areas involve uneven stone floors and stairs, but most of the site is accessible for those who can walk comfortably.

Nearby attractions: Houmt Souk souks, the fishing port, traditional guesthouses, and local cafés are within walking distance.

Summary

Borj El Kebir is more than just a fortress—it is a living monument to Djerba’s layered history, bearing witness to centuries of conflict, resilience, and cross-cultural encounters. For those interested in military history, Ottoman architecture, or simply seeking a commanding view of the Djerban coast, it is one of the most rewarding historical sites on the island.