Sumela Monastery | Trabzon

The Sumela Monastery (Turkish: Sümela Manastırı) is one of Turkey's most iconic and stunning historical sites, located in the Maçka district of Trabzon Province in the northeastern Black Sea region. The monastery is perched on the cliffs of the Altındere Valley, at an altitude of about 1,200 meters (3,937 feet) above sea level, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding forested mountains.

History and Significance:

Founding and Early History:

The Sumela Monastery was founded in 386 AD during the reign of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire. According to legend, two Greek monks, Barnabas and Sergius, were the founders of the monastery, having been guided by the Virgin Mary in a dream to establish the site.

The name "Sumela" comes from the Greek word "Sümele", which refers to the monastery's location near the Melas River (a river that runs through the Altındere Valley).

Byzantine Period:

The monastery flourished during the Byzantine Empire and became one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the region. The Virgin Mary was its patron saint, and the monastery housed a revered icon of the Virgin Mary called the Panagia Soumela. The icon, thought to be a miraculous relic, attracted countless pilgrims.

Over time, the monastery became an important center for Christianity and the Greek Orthodox Church in the region. It also served as a spiritual retreat for monks and a hub for art, culture, and learning.

Ottoman Period:

When the Ottoman Empire took control of the region in the 15th century, the monastery continued to function as a religious center. However, after the fall of the Byzantine Empire and the conquest of Trabzon in 1461, the monastery’s role shifted from being primarily a center of Byzantine Christianity to becoming more closely linked to the Greek Orthodox community under the Ottomans.

During the Ottoman era, the monastery was renovated, expanded, and maintained by the Orthodox Greek community. Religious ceremonies continued to be held here for centuries.

Decline and Abandonment:

In the 19th century, the Sumela Monastery faced challenges, including political and social unrest, especially due to the tensions between the Ottoman Empire and the Russian Empire.

By the early 20th century, with the collapse of the Ottoman Empire and the geopolitical changes following the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, the monastery faced a slow decline. Greek Orthodox monks gradually left the monastery, and in 1923, after the Turkish War of Independence, the population exchange between Turkey and Greece led to the abandonment of the monastery by its Greek inhabitants.

The monastery was abandoned for a period but remained a symbol of cultural and religious heritage.

Modern Day:

In 1972, the Sumela Monastery was officially closed for restoration by the Turkish government. Since then, the monastery has undergone extensive restoration work to preserve its structures, frescoes, and historical significance.

In 2010, it was reopened to the public, with the restoration efforts continuing to make it a major tourist destination in Turkey.

Architecture and Layout:

Location and Setting:

The Sumela Monastery is built into a sheer cliff face of the Altındere Valley, surrounded by lush forests and steep mountains. The dramatic setting adds to the awe-inspiring nature of the structure, as the monastery seems to "hang" over the valley below, offering a scenic and surreal view.

The complex consists of several buildings, including a main church, chapels, dormitories, kitchens, a library, and a refectory.

Main Church:

The main church of the monastery is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and it features stunning Byzantine frescoes that cover the walls and ceilings. These frescoes date from the 18th century and depict scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.

The most famous fresco is the icon of the Virgin Mary, which is believed to be the original icon brought to the monastery by the founding monks. This icon is said to have miraculous powers, and it is a key part of the monastery's religious significance.

Frescoes and Religious Art:

The monastery is renowned for its Byzantine frescoes, which depict various religious figures, including Jesus Christ, the Virgin Mary, and numerous saints. The frescoes are painted in a distinctive Byzantine style and are some of the most well-preserved examples of Byzantine religious art in Turkey.

The frescoes on the nave, altar, and dome illustrate biblical scenes, with iconography reflecting the rich tradition of the Byzantine Orthodox Church.

Cave Chapel:

The Cave Chapel is another fascinating feature of the monastery. It is a small, natural cave that was likely used as a place for prayer and meditation by the monks. The chapel is located near the main church, carved into the mountain rock.

Monastic Complex:

The monastery complex also includes several living quarters for the monks, a kitchen, a refectory (dining hall), and a library. These buildings were used for the daily life and spiritual practices of the monks who lived at the monastery.

The monastery’s defensive walls and watchtowers suggest that it also served as a safe refuge for the monks during periods of conflict.

Visiting the Sumela Monastery:

Tourism and Accessibility:

The Sumela Monastery is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Trabzon and the Black Sea region. Visitors are drawn to its dramatic setting, historic significance, and cultural heritage.

To reach the monastery, visitors can drive through the Altındere Valley National Park and hike a short distance uphill from the park entrance. While the hike to the monastery is moderately challenging, the views along the way and the monastery itself are well worth the effort.

The monastery is open year-round, though visiting hours can vary depending on restoration activities and weather conditions.

Restoration and Preservation:

Since the monastery’s reopening, significant efforts have been made to preserve its historical and cultural integrity. The frescoes and structural elements of the monastery have been carefully restored to maintain their authenticity.

Visitors can explore the monastery's interior and exterior, where detailed explanations are available to provide context on the monastery's history, religious significance, and the frescoes.

Cultural and Spiritual Importance:

The Sumela Monastery remains a place of spiritual significance for Greek Orthodox Christians and other Christian communities, despite its abandonment by monks. It continues to symbolize the deep-rooted Christian heritage of the region, while also serving as an iconic symbol of Byzantine architecture.

Conclusion:

The Sumela Monastery is a remarkable site, blending history, art, and spirituality. Its breathtaking location on the cliffs of the Altındere Valley, surrounded by lush green forests, makes it a must-see destination for anyone traveling to Trabzon and the Black Sea region. The monastery’s stunning Byzantine frescoes, remarkable architecture, and rich cultural significance continue to captivate visitors from around the world, making it one of Turkey’s most treasured historical landmarks.