Phajoding Monastery | Thimphu

Phajoding Monastery perches high on a forested ridge about 11 kilometers north of Thimphu, surrounded by pine and rhododendron-covered slopes. The approach itself sets the tone-a winding road that gradually narrows into a dirt path, giving a sense that you are leaving the bustle of the city far below. By the time you reach the monastery, the air is noticeably thinner, cooler, and carries the faint, resinous scent of pine mixed with the subtle fragrance of incense.

A Historic Seat of Meditation and Learning
Founded in the 13th century and expanded by the 16th-century lama Ngawang Tenzin, Phajoding serves as both a monastic retreat and a center for meditation. Its series of smaller temples, shrines, and residential quarters are scattered along the hillside, connected by stone stairways that climb steeply, requiring careful, deliberate steps. Each building feels purposeful yet understated, reflecting centuries of monastic life devoted to study, prayer, and seclusion.

Courtyards and Prayer Halls
The main assembly hall sits near the uppermost part of the complex. Inside, a large golden Buddha dominates the altar, surrounded by smaller statues of protectors and lineage masters. Walls are adorned with traditional murals depicting deities, teachings, and historic events in deep reds, blues, and golds. The air is tinged with the aroma of burning butter lamps, blending with the natural scent of pinewood and cool mountain air seeping through open windows. Light filters in through latticed wooden frames, casting patterns that shift gently with the day.

Monastic Life in the Hills
Phajoding is home to dozens of monks, most of them novices, who follow strict routines of meditation, study, and chores. From the courtyards, you can hear soft chants echoing across the valley below, punctuated by the occasional clatter of wooden doors or the rhythmic scrape of sweeping. Monks move between prayer halls and dormitories with quiet purpose, their maroon robes and shaved heads adding splashes of color against the whitewashed walls and stone pathways.

The Hilltop View and Natural Surroundings
From the monastery, the Thimphu Valley spreads out below like a patchwork of roofs, roads, and rivers, softened by distance and forest cover. The higher slopes of the surrounding hills are often cloaked in mist, giving the entire ridge a floating, almost ethereal quality. Birds flit among the trees, and the wind carries a gentle whistle that punctuates the otherwise steady silence of the monastery.

A Sense of Solitude and Devotion
Unlike the more accessible dzongs of the capital, Phajoding feels remote and introspective. Visitors move slowly, pausing often to absorb murals, observe prayer wheels, or take in the expansive views. The combination of altitude, architectural simplicity, and the constant presence of ritual chanting creates a profound sense of quiet and reflection.

A Closing Impression
Phajoding Monastery is a sanctuary both physically and spiritually removed from Thimphu. Its hilltop location, centuries-old buildings, and serene rhythm of monastic life make it a place where time feels slowed, where the scent of pine and incense lingers, and where the practice of meditation and devotion seems to permeate the air itself. It leaves visitors with a deep sense of connection to Bhutan’s contemplative traditions and the enduring tranquility of its mountain monasteries.